Roto - hoe cutn shred shredder manual

This thing is quite a bit wider than my Mighty Mac, and has more hammers in it. Is anyone still watching this forum? You need to be a member in order to leave a comment.

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy! Already have an account? Sign in here. Recommended Posts. Usually I just run one pulley so it can slip if needed, but it keeps much better power with both pulleys.

Something like what the roto hoe has. These pics will help with that. I like the honda clone 6. Two years back or so, I remembered the clutch stuck on the kohler and tried to pull it.

Lo and behold, after all that time it practically fell off! So now I'm torn between putting the original cent. Honestly the cent. I think it was the weak link in the system.

At one point it broke, one of the three springs inside snapped. I happened to find 3 similar springs at an old stock mower store, and was able to fix it. It seemed to work, but as well as the original, I don't know. Soon after on a hot day, the kohler 8hp magnum engine wiring smoked. So anyway, those pics should help with ideas. I think the kemp has plenty of power as is with the 6.

But it can hard to start under that load. I run it full throttle now. Bob Elliott I will take pics of that belt cover when I get a chance. Bob Elliott. I took some pics of the belt guard. It is supposed to be a two piece unit, but on the last pics I realized the bottom hold down tab on the inner guard is broken and would need to be welded.

I can post them here I guess or email them to you. It is around 2 dozen pics, to be somewhat comprehensive in case you are going to fab one. Hello - happy there is some interest in Roto-Hoe's -- Picked up a yesterday and am having problems removing the three shredder knives that attach to the rotating drum reel.

There are two bolts holding each knife - one of which the one closest to the axle that match the hole in the side of the enclosure - easy to extract this one.

The second bolt does not have a matching hole for extraction and I see no way to pull it out. I'll add that for all three knives, both bolt heads are inserted from the enclosure side, and the nut is attached from the cutting reel side. I was wondering, could it be that the upper bolt should be inserted opposite the lower bolt?

Meaning that the head of the upper bolt should go through the reel toward the outer enclosure? I'm at the point where it looks to me like drilling a second hole through the outer enclosure to match the upper bolt location would be a practical approach as I don't fancy pulling out the entire reel to access the upper bolt. I'd have to check but I'm pretty sure my has two holes, one for each bolt, indexed at different spots. One at 4 o'clock one at 10 o'clock.

It would be hard to miss though, only a few inches apart, so I suppose you'll have to cut a hole there. Hello Jay and for your reply - yes, I lack that 4 o'clock second hole - and will attempt to drill a hole to match your example - any idea of the distance from the shaft centerline to the center of your 4 o'clock?

Greetings all - further status on my maintenance. Removing the shaft that goes through the reel went easier than I feared! Remove the shaft bearing covers and the tapered wheel bearings from the non-driven side. On the driven side with the pulley wheel, the pulley was reluctant to come off, so I removed the driven-side bearing cap. Then removed the bolt inside the housing that goes through the reel and the shaft, and the shaft pulled right out.

Plan is now to put another hole in the housing at the o'clock position per Jay's photo and put it back together. I will measure tomorrow if I remember, if I don't not bump it again.

I don't know if we can PM on this site or not? Does any one know the bearing part numbers for the chipper shredder I have tried to have the original part number cross referenced with no luck.!

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July Email 1: Thank you for sending, so promptly, the. Thank you for sending, so promptly, the owner's manual for my newly acquired. The engine fired right up, but I wasn't sure the chipper, shredder was spinning. The following was shared with us from a former Roto-Hoe owner who needed.

Am i missin something? Maybe post a picture of the pully arraignment? Also does anyone have a manual? I wrote note few minutes ago but would like to add an item. The desmanteled Roto Hoe Shred Shredded Model was given to me but I don't have any idea how each of the pieces go back together, the two belts, etc.

I am missing some bearings plus a couple of parts to be able to asamblea it. Thus the manual is needed, or a diagram on where things go where. If you want to help with photo copies of the manual you can also call me cell Greatly appreciated.

I know this is an old thread, but I am reviving an old Roto-Hoe cp and when I search for details on it, this thread pops up. So I figured I would share any information I have here for future reference. I replaced the belts on my cp one was missing. I went with a 54" and a 59" Kevlar belt from Tractor Supply. So far they are working great. It took me a while to figure out but there are some posts sticking straight out near the rear pulley and near the "clutch".

Initially I thought those were just to keep the belt in alignment, but they are more important than that. When the clutch is disengaged you want those posts to slightly squeeze the belt.

They are what prevent the motor from turning the belts when the belt clutches are disengaged. The Roto-Hoe has a bunch of slots at the bottom.

At first I couldn't figure out what those were for, but the shredding mechanism wasn't working worth a darn limbs would shoot straight through the hammers and fall a little torn up but nearly complete.

After searching, I came to realize there should be metal slats in those slots. I will be measuring the slot sizes and working on cutting down some steel stock to replace the missing slats over the next week or so. There is an inspection box on one side of the chipper.